I recently came across a video of a woodworking technique called Kolrosing. You cut slits into the wood, then rub fine dark powder into the slits. Traditionally you’d rub coal dust into the cuts, but people have used coffee grounds or other materials. You then use oil to seal the wood, trapping the dust in the cuts.
I started this spoon at a scout campout earlier this year with my son. I’d just gotten a spokeshave and thought I’d like to make a spoon where I did all the shaping just with the new tool. The spokeshave was probably a little large for making spoons and I couldn’t make a very tight concave curves with it. The result was a chunky spoon with just a suggestion of a handle.
I brought the spoon with me to another scout camp this fall. While my son was off earning merit badges I worked on finishing the spoon. I used a pocket knife and some carving knives to carve “2017 Many Point 906” into the handle. Many Point was the scout camp, 906 was the troop number.
I used ashes from the fire pit at camp to color the lines. It seemed fitting for a scout camp spoon.
I hadn’t brought any mineral oil or anything to finish the spoon with, but I did have a handy travel size tube of mint scented food-safe vitamin-e and beezwax. Mint chapstick. I had mint chapstick with me. So, I used that to finish the spoon and gave it to a scout leader who had worked hard to put the camp on for the boys.
The wood is apple wood, and it was one of my last couple of apple logs which I got 5ish years ago now. I think I have two more spoon sized pieces in the garage. At least they’re nice and dry.
I really liked the kolrosing technique. I’ve been interested in learning and trying out wood decorating techniques and kolrosing was an easy start. I think something with a looser grain than apple wood would’ve worked better. Or maybe a wood that wasn’t so dried out. It didn’t seem to split apart as well as the cuts in the videos I watched.
Also, I bet I do a better job next time!
Here’s the first video I saw about kolrosing. Also, I love the shirt in the video: Because a kid without a knife is a kid without a life. If you’d like to learn more about kolrosing, also check out this “Basics of Kolrosing” website.
It was over three years ago that we were working on our Kitchen, and not quite three years ago that we finished the countertops.
At the time one of the hardest decisions was what to finish our wooden countertop with. In the end we went with Waterlox. It was supposed to be durable, food safe, low maintenance, non-chipping and easy to repair if the need arose.
The counter tops have taken three years of abuse and misuse by a family of 6 who didn’t always use a cutting board (but usually did), who didn’t always wipe up water, vinegar, ketchup or whatever else feel on the counter (but usually did) and who treated the counters like something meant to be used, and not like a piece of art.
This resulted in some expected damage, like nicks and scratches, as well as some unexpected blemishes, like water marks under the handle of the faucet, a big circle that peeled off where ketchup had sat on it for an hour or so (oops), and occasional print transfers from plastic bags (??!!??).
So, we decided to refinish it before winter set in, so that we could have the windows open during the process. Waterlox is super stinky when it’s drying. I suppose I could’ve tried the low-VOC formula this time, but the original formula worked so well, and it’s so expensive per can that I didn’t want to risk it.
I hit the damaged spots with a random orbital sander with a 120 grit pad on it. I sanded down until I couldn’t see the damage any more, and blended the sanded area into the surrounding still-good areas.
After sanding I applied two very thin wiped on coats to see if it would blend in. It did stick to the old waterlox seamlessly as it was supposed to, so we carried on.
After the thinly wiped coats I applied several spot-specific coats in the areas where I had sanded, making sure to blend out from the sanded areas into the surrounding counter top.
I did this to build up a coat that would be about the same thickness as the original coat so that the color would blend better.
Between each coat I wiped the counter with 1000 grit sandpaper to remove any bubbles and dust that had settled while it was drying, and then wiped it as clean as possible with a towel.
I lost track of how many coats I ended up putting on, but it was at least 8 coats, but probably 10 or 12. The final two coats were very thin wiped on coats to make sure that whole surface had the same wipe pattern.
Re-finishing the counter was slightly easier than if it had been polyurethane or something since the new finish blended so well with the old. However, it took just as long between coats for spot application as it did for whole counter application three years ago, so it wasn’t quicker.
We’ve been happy with the day-to-day performance of the Waterlox. It’s handled water, cuts, condiments and hot pans
I’m sure we would’ve abused a laminate countertop too, and we couldn’t replace or refinish laminate after only three years. Also, while Waterlox is expensive ($90ish/can) for a finish, the cost of a new countertop in comparison makes it seem cheap.
On the other hand, while laminate would’ve gotten beat up too, it probably would’ve still looked adequate. The wooden countertop was starting to get dark spots from where the Waterlox had been cut or dissolved by ketchup and then repeatedly gotten wet.
I still like the look of the wood better, but wood with Waterlox is more work than laminate would be.
So, if you want maintenance free, then wood + Waterlox probably isn’t the right choice. It looks great for a few years, but eventually you’ll need to take a week and refinish it. If, however, you like the look of wood countertops and you’re willing to do the maintenance then Waterlox seems to be a good option and I’m glad we went with it.
Sometimes it seems like you just don’t have the right tool for the job, starting with picking up these logs.
When I saw them on Craigslist they looked to be about 10 inches in diameter and a few feet long.
Turns out they were 22 inches in diameter and 5 feet long. Big.
The right tool would’ve been a truck with a winch, but I made do with a minivan and some ratchet straps. These things were super heavy.
I had helpers when it came to de-barking…
…and then we used wedges to split the logs.
A good friend came and helped with the splitting. Here we’re prying apart a log that has split, but just won’t separate.
We goth both logs halved and then decided to quarter them.
Afterwards we stacked them and my 9 year old painted their ends for me.
To mill the logs into boards I built a saw mill out of 2x4s, a 2×6 and two scaffolding jacks. The right tool for this job would’ve been a nice large bandsaw mill (then I wouldn’t have even split the logs, I would’ve just milled them whole).
I started by screwing the log to a piece of plywood so it wouldn’t rock or slip.
I then positioned the log close to the chainsaw mill’s I-beam.
I then used the jacks to lower the I-beam until the saw was at the desired height.
Here’s a shot showing the finished surface. Not too bad.
Here’s another view of the chainsaw mill.
And the mess that was left over.
If all goes well, I’ll get these logs cut into boards and stickered (stacked, with spacers between them) in the next week or so. Then I’ll let the boards dry, and in a year or so I hope to turn this cherry wood into some nice nightstands or something for our home.
The scraps will be used for wood turnings, tool handles and carving.